Some corrections

Voir le sujet précédent Voir le sujet suivant Aller en bas

Some corrections

Message  Tys le Dim 3 Mar - 13:10

I'm sorry, I'm also posting in English as my French is really bad. Got some things you maybe want to add:

Wheel of Life: Is also done by David Graham, and is in route rating also considered to be possibly 9a+
Estado Critico: Also done by Sachi Amma, but the consensus seems to be now that it's 8c+. If you leave it up though, you should add Sachi Amma to the ascents.
Karachi: Also done by Sachi Amma
San Ku Kai: Climbed by Alex Megos
Travesia de Arroita (sin pegao): 8C+ boulder by Dani Andrada, also given a route rating of 9a+. The sin pegao part seems to stand for not using a hold that was glued. He has also done it with that hold, which he graded as a 8C boulder, but didn't give a route grading (9a maybe? If it's really a route at all..)
Al Hakán: Done by Bernabe Fernandez and Dani Andrada, this seems to be the correct spelling, as it is now put up with two different names for both. There also seems to be a route called Al-Hakan in the same area which is 8b+, which sounds a little strange to me...
Fight the Feeling: Climbed by Dave McLeod, graded as 8c+ or 9a by him.
Echo Wall: Also by Dave McLeod, said to feel like 8c/8c+ on toprope, but climbing toprope is easier than climbing lead, so the climbing itself could maybe also be as hard as 8c+ or 9a when climbing lead. In any way, Dave himself has said that it was much harder than Rhapsody (8c+), and that he had to be able to do 9a to climb it. As long as he doesn't really give the route a grade, we obviously don't know what grade it should get, but I think it could deserve to be on this site (maybe as 8c+/9a or so).

On a different note, at the Japon page, the link to Yuri Hirayama links to editing the page about him.

It's really nice that you have put so much effort in this site, and the information here seems really accurate. I think it could be important for climbing that all high ascents are put together on one site. How close do you think the site is to completion now? In any way, I just want to thank you for doing this.

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Admin le Lun 4 Mar - 12:58

Thanks a lot for your corrections! I have changed the things you wrote.
Just one question: Is the "Traversia de Arroita" the same route as "Traversia de Baltzola", or are they two different routes?

Do not hesitate to tell me if you read mistakes or if you see missing information.

Thanks!

Admin
Admin

Messages : 22
Date d'inscription : 01/01/2009

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur http://escalade9a.forumactif.org

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Mar 5 Mar - 13:43

They seem to be two different routes.

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Mer 6 Mar - 18:38

Looking into it now, it seems that the different traverses in that cave are kind of confused by everyone or something. It's a pretty big mess.

You've got 'travesia de balzola' (8B/8c+/9a), which seems to be also called 'la travesia de arroita' and 'el bulder de arroita'. (Done by Josune Bereziartu, Dani Andrada, etc.)
Then you have got 'la travesia de arroita total' (8C/??9a??), which is also called 'trave de arroita' and 'trave de arroi'. (done by Dani Andrada and Iker Pou)
Then you've got 'la travesia de arroita total (sin pegao)' (8C+/9a+), which is also called 'trave de arroita (sin pegao)' and 'trave de arroi (sin pegao)'. (done by Dani Andrada)

This seems to suggest that 'travesia de balzola' = 'la travesia de arroita total', but apparently it's not.
Also, to add confusion:
- Iker Pou has done a link-up between 'la travesia de arroita total' and 'hay que masticar antes de tragar', which he says is still 8C but a little bit harder than 'la travesia de arroita total'.
- Dani Andrada has also done 'travesia de balzola' (sin pegao), which he has put on 8a.nu as 8B.
- There is also a boulder logged at 8a.nu called 'bloque de arroita' 7C+
- There is also a boulder logged at 8a.nu called 'trave baltzola' 7C


It's too confusing, it seems like no one really knows what's going on. (Also, you probably already know, but at 8a.nu is something about a new 9a in Portugal)

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Admin le Dim 10 Mar - 16:35

I'm back from holiday right now and I'm updating the news. Thank you for your explainations. I will change the page about La Traversia de Balzola as soon as possible.

Thanks

Admin
Admin

Messages : 22
Date d'inscription : 01/01/2009

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur http://escalade9a.forumactif.org

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Mar 12 Mar - 19:14

Klemen Becan has climbed The Core (9a), Halupca 1979 (9a) and Fidel Incastro (9a). Cuidad de dios is has also been graded 9a+.

Keep up the good work. Smile

Edit: James McHaffie has climbed The Meltdown, 8c+/9a, one of the hardest slab climbs (not to be confused with Meltdown that was climbed by Beth Rodden).

...I guess these were all the ascents that I know off that were missing.

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Jeu 14 Mar - 17:46

As I think you probably wouldn't see it otherwise, I did an edit to the post above.

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Admin le Ven 15 Mar - 0:43

Thanks Tys for your infos. If you see any other missing ascent, keep writting!

Admin
Admin

Messages : 22
Date d'inscription : 01/01/2009

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur http://escalade9a.forumactif.org

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Sam 16 Mar - 16:29

Toru Nakajima, Flat Mountain

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Dim 17 Mar - 15:32

I decided to just start working through everything by country. Smile So first, corrections for Germany:

Markus Bendler - From Austria, not Germany
Andreas Bindhammer - Kreuzigung 9a (also by Christian Bindhammer)
Markus Bock - Sever the Wicked Hand, 9a
Felix Neumärker - Estado Critico, Broadway, La Reina Mora
Jochen Rühl: Seems to have lied about his ascent? Haven't really got any idea what you should do with it...
David Firnenburg - From Germany, not Austria Wink

While I was doing this, I saw the ascents of Felix Neumärker on 8a.nu, and I see you saw it too. Wink

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Dim 17 Mar - 15:40

Oh, and 1 more: Christian Bindhammer has done Monster Maze, 9a/+, which apparently isn't the same as the Maze. (maybe an extension or something? I don't really know)

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  CliffHunger le Dim 17 Mar - 20:29

Not to butt in on your thread, but I noticed another detail that needs correction.

Chris Sharma did The Fly in 4 tries, not 2.

He did fall high on his flash go, then missed the first move twice before he got it again, and that time, went to the top.
I have a friend who filmed his ascent, he posted it as part of a longer video some time ago, I'll try to find it online again...

Thanks for the very good work of putting this database together!

P.S.
I didn't know l'Autre côté du ciel was repeated? And by a virtually unknown canadian? Can I have more info on that?

CliffHunger

Messages : 1
Date d'inscription : 17/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Admin le Dim 17 Mar - 22:02

Hello Cliffhunger,
Robert Girard was a canadian climber who died in a car crash in 2010. He was not famous because not interested in mediatisation. He prefered travelling all around the world with his friends (Stojan Jovanic and his brother), specially in Europe where he climbed very hard routes like "L'Autre coté du ciel", or hard boulders like "Voyage Eternel", 8C trav, in Fontainebleau.

Thanks for your comment about Sharma's ascent in Rumney!

Admin
Admin

Messages : 22
Date d'inscription : 01/01/2009

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur http://escalade9a.forumactif.org

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Dim 31 Mar - 15:50

It could maybe be nice to also add some info about 9a's done on second go on the onsight/flash page.

Small list:
Alex Megos: La Rambla, A Muerte
Adam Ondra: Halupca 1979, Der Heilige Gral, Open Your Mind R2, Duele la realidad R2, Era Vella, Airva Ese, Shortcut
Ramon Julian: Fuck the System, Supernowa, San Ku Kai, El Templo del Cafe
Patxi Usobiaga: Hades, Estado Critico
Do you maybe know of any more? I can imagine that Chris Sharma would also be able to do this, but I can't find any info on that.

Adam Ondra said Airva Ese 'could easily be 9a', so maybe you want to add that route to the database. It's also climbed by Ramon Julian.

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Mer 3 Avr - 19:39

But if you don't want to do that, it's fine! But just say so. Wink

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Admin le Mer 3 Avr - 20:13

Hi Tys,

Sorry for the delay. Just to much work these latest days.

I won't add the "second go" ascents, because it doesn't mean the same thing in different countries. In France, you can work every move one by one during hours and then try the route for real: it's second go, which doesn't mean anything to me in this case.

About "Airva Ese". I might add it after that the grade is confirmed by another climber.

Thank's a lot for your help and your comments!

Admin
Admin

Messages : 22
Date d'inscription : 01/01/2009

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur http://escalade9a.forumactif.org

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Ven 5 Avr - 10:11

No problem, and that sounds reasonable. By the way: http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tnb-super-unknown-austin-dark-horse-establishes-5-14d-in-random-texas-cave
Seems like 'I, Me, Mine' was first climbed by a very unknown climber, Rupesh Chhagan.

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Sam 20 Avr - 20:22

Maurizio Zanolla has climbed Roby Present, 8c+/9a. Probably breaks the age record. Smile http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39350

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Dim 28 Avr - 20:05

http://www.frankenjura.com/frankenjura/news/artikel/902

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Ven 3 Mai - 12:19

Apparently Adam Ondra climbed a 9a called Hakuna Matata. Strangely enough, nobody wrote a news article on this. You can see it on his 8a.nu profile.

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Ven 3 Mai - 12:44

There seem to be some more 9a's missing for Adam Ondra:

Conde de Choc
Biologico
Pantera
Campo Con Corvi

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Tys le Ven 3 Mai - 13:07

And for Daniel Woods, Mourning Glory.

Tys

Messages : 16
Date d'inscription : 03/03/2013

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Ramonet 9a+/b

Message  mrmc le Lun 30 Nov - 11:35

Ramonet has done Catxasa R2 that is 9a+/b. This route is a combinacion of catxasa that is 9a+ and a extencion that goes to the end of the route La enmienda. This is explained in this article in spanish http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/ramonet-completa-la-cueva-de-santa-linya-con-catxasa-r2-9a-plus-b

mrmc

Messages : 1
Date d'inscription : 17/11/2015

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Admin le Lun 30 Nov - 22:20

mrmc a écrit:Ramonet has done Catxasa R2 that is 9a+/b. This route is a combinacion of catxasa that is 9a+ and a extencion that goes to the end of the route La enmienda. This is explained in this article in spanish http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/ramonet-completa-la-cueva-de-santa-linya-con-catxasa-r2-9a-plus-b

You're right. I've changed the description of the route:http://escalade9.wifeo.com/catxasa.php

Admin
Admin

Messages : 22
Date d'inscription : 01/01/2009

Voir le profil de l'utilisateur http://escalade9a.forumactif.org

Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Re: Some corrections

Message  Contenu sponsorisé


Contenu sponsorisé


Revenir en haut Aller en bas

Voir le sujet précédent Voir le sujet suivant Revenir en haut

- Sujets similaires

 
Permission de ce forum:
Vous ne pouvez pas répondre aux sujets dans ce forum